Caltagirone - Ceramics capital of the universe

After looking at pictures like these for 2 years our visit to Caltagirone was as anticipated as any city on our list for this 5 week adventure.  We booked a place very near Scala di Santa Maria del Monte for 3 nights as a base for visiting, shopping, and a day trip to Piazza Armerina.  The small town feel and charm was also evident in the B&B rates, although not the nicest place we stayed it was convenient and adequate with excellent WiFi, that counts for something right?

We really enjoyed the town, visited the Ceramics Museum, took a tour on a Piaggio around town, and purchased several, ok lots like a cool wine pitcher, a wall clock, a nice fruit bowl, a desk clock for work (which is inevitably headed my way) and some gifts and other things, most of which are being shipped home.  It was really cool to watch some items in process, we had the chance to observe one gentleman in his shop mold and shaping the clay, and on a separate day we watched four ladies painting different items prior to the second burn in the kiln.  Interesting how the paint changes color once heated, black to green and others.

The people of the town were the hit though.  We stopped for appertivo on square the first night and were treated to an eager young man's service who "loved America" but not Trump.  Kinda funny how American politics are so important on the other side of the world.  He was a nice kid and we chatted a bit, helping his English and he our Italian, enjoying Prosecco and watching the original council of wisdom on the square.  At one point there were >20 men old just sitting on the steps or standing on the corner, either chatting or arguing sometimes its hard to tell with all the hand gestures and exaggerated emotional display of the Italian people.  Good stuff.

Not sure who or why but I'm with big head.

We relaxed, just hanging out in the town and ended up walking by this restaurant at lunchtime that Kathie had seen online, Il Locandiere.  I stopped in and asked for reservations for the evening, the chef came out and told us "This is fish restaurant, we only serve fish" I happily replied that is great and they made us a reservation under Mr USA.  I'm ok with that.  And I'm more than ok with the incredible food that was served to us later that day, just super fantastic delicious wonderful food. 

And the wait staff was great, I like it when they bring you a dish, describe it and the order in which it should be eaten.  We went with the cold and hot fish appetizer for 2 as suggested by the waiter, just awesome.  Smoked swordfish and almonds (eat 1st), herring with wild fennel on orange (eat last), anchovies (2nd), and tuna with local cheese on pear (3rd).  The herring was absolutely the best two bites of food I've eaten, complex flavors of the fish and the orange offsetting each other, the smoky and tart, the sweetness and depth, damn it was good.  Kathie liked the smoked swordfish best, it was so melt in your mouth delicious, but honestly that was 3rd to me after the tuna. 

Now for the hot appetizer, part one, baccala and onion

Part 2, swordfish sausages, so good, so so good!

Part 3 of the hot appetizer, mussels.  Funny cause just a couple days before I told Kathie I like mussels but not too many of them, and they must be hot.  Well these were absolutely delicious, great sauce, and piping hot.  They did not get to the point of diminishing returns. 

We split primi and secondi piatti, a pasta and a fish with clams, both tasty.  The place was so good, and so inviting, we went back the second night, for just the cold appetizers and different entrees, everything was spot on good.  Here's that herring again, my mouth is watering.

Here's to you Il Locandiere, thanks for a couple fabulous meals.

Buona serata bella!